Pizza Cantina in the Junction at Dundas St West runs Roman-style pizza with the 72-hour fermented dough that separates artisan pizza from the everyday, a high-hydration dough that produces a lighter, more complex base through extended cold fermentation, then baked in a traditional stone oven for the Char and spring that the format demands. The 12-inch format is the right size: not so large that the crust loses its structural integrity, not so small that the toppings can't be properly distributed. The Junction, where food culture has matured significantly in the last decade, provides the audience for pizza that's made with this level of process commitment. At a Dundas West address surrounded by independent restaurants with devoted followings, Pizza Cantina earns its place by approaching pizza as a craft rather than a commodity.

Try the marinara, margherita, pepperoni, capricciosa, veggie.